As usual, we are sorry that this update is a bit late, but it is true what
they say - better late than never! So on with our news .....
Those who have read our last update (May 2006) will know that we met a couple
called Jean Claude and Raymonde at the village of Paray le Monial and our
first photo is of them with Pamela.
PAMELA, JEAN CLAUDE AND RAYMONDE
As they suggested, when we got to Roanne we gave them a call and so they
came down to Roanne to collect us. They live in a small hilltop village in
the Beaujolais region and Jean Claude decided that he was to be the chef for
that evening. We had a lovely meal and a really great evening.
Over the next couple of days they took us out in their camper van to give
us some idea of what the local area had to offer. We went to a place where
the Loire has been dammed and has left a chateau surrounded by water. As you
will see from the next photo this has probably made the chateau look even
more attractive.
CHATEAU ON THE LOIRE
The countryside around here is so very green and according to Jean Claude,
it is like this all the year round. We came across another chateau which was
privately owned, but you could walk around the outside and into the motor
museum. The lake around the outside had the most enormous carp in it - sorry
Tony and Linda, no photos! As you can see from the next two pictures, the
chateau is very French in style.
CHATEAU...
CHATEAU...
We finished up that day at Jean-Claude's aunts house for coffee. She reminded
us very much of Margaret Rutherford and we're sure that she had many a good
tale to tell but unfortunately time didn't allow. We did find out from Jean
Claude though that his uncle had created a frog pond in the back garden and
that "frog fishing" was very popular! Apparently 500 frogs can be
caught in an afternoon just in this pond alone and his description of auntie
dealing with them was not for the squeamish.
The next picture was taken from Jean Claude's aunties house and we think
it could look quite at home in the Yorkshire dales (notice the dry stone walling).
AUNTIE'S HOUSE
Now Raymonde had never been on a boat on the rivers or canals so when we
were ready to leave Roanne, we offered to take her to our next port of call,
Briennon. Although it doesn't seem very exciting, she enjoyed it very much,
especially having a go at steering the boat. I think the overall tranquillity
of the day was something she will remember as it was the first thing she mentioned
after we set sail.
After Roanne, and back on the main canal, we decided to go back up to Digoin
and Paray le Monial to meet up with Al and Robbie who were trying to catch
us up and deliver our second solar panel. Another pleasant meeting and it
was very surprising to find someone who could travel slower than us.
AL AND ROBBIE AT PARAY
Actually I think the reunion was more of a "Robbie/Gromit" thing.
Al took this next picture and Robbie called it King Gromit.
KING GROMIT
We then went back through Digoin to find a place to wait for David and Renate
on "Suki" who were coming in the opposite direction. They had left
Dover in the spring and were getting quite near. We first met them during
our first winter in France and had many happy hours together.
DAVID AND RENATE
When they arrived, we had lots of catching up to do in a short time so we
went back into Digoin with them and spent a night there with afternoon tea
and an evening meal to look forward to.
TEATIME
Moving not swiftly on, we had a chance meet up with Paul and Val on "Dillykim".
They were also heading in the opposite direction but, as always, time allowed
for a quick chat and update on the season so far. In our next photo is the
man on the tractor who we named Greengrass. He seems to have gone cool and
had a number one!
GREENGRASS
We had an email from Val afterwards to say that she has made him a wig out
of some moss, which suggests he might now have to be called "Stirling".
At this rate in another few years, we won't actually make any headway at
all as every boat that passes will be someone we know! It does seem to be
a very big, small world over here and everyone seems to know everyone else.
Paul and Val told us about a delay at the next lock, which was a gate problem.
When we got there, the firemen were busy diving and trying to clear the problem
which turned out to be a piece of log stuck in one of the gate paddles.
PLONGEURS
We saw the vehicle in our next photo in the street. They were advertised
last summer, with no license required to drive them. They aren't allowed on
the motorways as they are only about 300 cc. and sound like lawn mowers. This
was the pickup version and quite capable of carrying at least two baguettes.
PICKUP TRUCK
Our next photo is of a couple we met in Decize, who were coming to the end
of their 23 year journey - yes 23 years! Their boat "Clypeus" is
made of concrete and has obviously served them well as they have travelled
around the world. We can't possibly start to tell their story because firstly
we don't know it all and secondly it would probably mean writing a book. In
fact that is just what they have done - they have written two books. Al on
"Escape" bought one of the books and told us that the story does
include being taken hostage at one point.
CLYPEUS
So on to the next picture. We spotted these two Land Rovers by chance one
day. One had a slight problem with an oil leak caused by loose bits around
the front brakes. It was soon rectified though and it was then off to the
Central Massif to continue their holiday.
SLIGHT HITCH
It isn't always nice weather over here. It's all connected with extremes
so in our next photo we have Pamela and the lock keeper suitably dressed for
the downpour.
SUNNY DAYS AHEAD
Our next chance meeting was with Mervyn and Pat on "Trucy". They
were heading back to Blighty for a visit so swapping of information was the
order of the day.
SWAPPING INFO
As our boat moves along, we find it amusing that the Herons we come across
decide to take off just as our bow gets level with them. Of course this only
happens when you have your camera ready to take their picture. If you decide
not to pick the camera up, they don't move and you miss a good shot! All this
happens even if you don't go out of the wheel house so how do they know?
HENRY the HERON
Pamela likes a glass of white wine now and again and is quite fond of certain
ones so managing to get to Sancerre was a bit special for her.
PENNY FOR YOUR THOUGHTS
It would have been a very steep climb up to the village so we taxied up
there and made our own way back, trying to make the return journey less winding
by cutting through the vineyards.
Menetreol, the village at the bottom of the hill, was very pretty with lots
of old buildings and alleys to look around but of course far too many to show
in this update. We think that this arch and alley could probably tell a tale
or two.
ARCHY
Our next stop was Briare. The chap who designed the Eiffel tower (presumably
Monsieur Eiffel) also designed the aqueduct at Briare. This takes you across
the Loire, a river we seem to have followed for most of the journey this summer.
THE EIFFEL AQUEDUCT
At the risk of sounding like we've swallowed an information guide, the source
of the Loire is apparently in the Auvergne region, which is way down South.
If the Loire had decided to go south to the Med instead of North/West it might
have been the shortest river in France rather than the longest.
We both liked Briare and they had a market day which was good as they aren't
as plentiful as they used to be. Being on a boat brings things into perspective
and allows you to see how cars have led to out of town shopping and the demise
of local shops.
Now we are on foot, we can see that the old and car-less can have a very limited
source of basic shopping and at a higher price.
As you can see from the next photo, the huntsmen of the area were on parade
with their beautiful red tunics and glistening horns. It's fortunate really
that they don't live in a "Nanny State" and can still go about their
business unheeded.
A HUNTING WE WILL GO
We managed to get some mangy looking cheese on the market and as it turns
out it is absolutely beautiful. The outer rind has a very peppery taste and
has led us to ask around and seek out more.
FROMAGE AT IT'S BEST
The next picture is of a flight of seven locks which are no longer in use
but are kept as a monument to the man who designed them 400 years ago.
FLIGHT OF SEVEN
Lock keepers are great people and generally have something other than the
locks to help the day go by. We saw one who carried his pet dog on his knees
whilst riding his moped between locks. We weren't fast enough to capture that
picture but did get a couple of the dog at rest. What a little beauty with
long gangly legs.
LOCK KEEPER'S MATE
The next lock keeper had a hobby which he wanted everyone else to enjoy
too. It was a fairground organ in good working order. As soon as you go into
the lock he starts the organ and if the music finishes before you leave, he
goes back to the lockhouse and changes the tune. The organ is kept just inside
his front door and we're sure it must be the pride of his wife's things to
dust.
LOCK KEEPER'S HOBBY
Now for David's hobby of making, and eating, food. He looked at quite a
few different recipes for bouillabaisse (fish stew), jotted down the ingredients
that we both liked and then made his version. It was a great success and the
next time we meet Paul and Judy on "Normaddie" I'm sure we can convert
Judy to this dish - I bet she can't wait!
BOUILLABAISSE
Something else we spotted as we moved along was the man in the next picture.
He was doing what men do which is quite legal and normal over here, as long
as you keep your back to onlookers.
SPENDING A CENTIME
Getting quite near to Paris, we arrived at St Mammes and found a large cruise
boat welcoming it's guests aboard. To our surprise, they were all English
and partaking in a trip organised by "Waterways World" magazine.
We recently received this e-mail from Hugh Potter, who kindly allowed David
to tag along on one of their trips to a museum in St Mammes. He is the Consultant
Editor of Waterways World and I'm sure he won't mind us reproducing it here.
"David
Just to say it was good to meet you after your wrong turn at
Huddersfield led you to the same mooring as us at St Mammès!
I hope you enjoyed your 'Barge Tour'. We went on to the Pardon de la
Batellerie at Conflans which was an amazing event when the procession
of boats arrived from Paris, all horns blaring!
We reached Rouen and changed one group of WW readers for another
there for the return to St Mammès.
It's a beautiful river in those chalk cliffs of the lower reaches.
Pretty good weather too.
Happy cruising!"
David took this picture as they were leaving St. Mammes and heading for
Paris and beyond.
WATERWAYS WORLD CRUISE 2006
So just three pictures to go ...
Firstly, how to get a car off your barge and onto the bank - carry your
own crane!
GOOD REACH
The next photo shows an example of what we saw as we got nearer to Paris,
where the properties looked expensive.
NOT GOING FOR A SONG
On the Seine, the locks are very big and the river is busy. The big commercial
boats don't usually bother us too much as we keep in radio contact with them
so that they are aware of our next move, which is always to give way to them.
BUSY ON THE SEINE
Once again we must apologise for the lateness of this update but it really
is very hot (between 30 and 37 centigrade just now), the telephone signal
isn't good and we have of course had visitors.
Our next update will include Pamela's sister Pat's visit in Paris and Paul
and Pauline Holloway's visit to Epernay. We are about three days away from
there at the moment so we have plenty of time to get there.
Changing the subject slightly just before we conclude, not all the news
going back and forward to England/Scotland is good news. So if you are involved
in the bad news, we are thinking of you and hope that things will work out
for all concerned.
